Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Hold Your Horses

James McWilliams.com

The whole M. Wells Horse Tartaregate got me looking into the
 matter of horse meat in greater depth and intensity. I’m now
 writing a piece on it for a national publication and will hope
 to share it soon.
I think it’s terrific that Chef Dufour bowed to pressure from
animal advocates and scratched plans to add raw horse meat
 to his MoMA PS 1 menu. But, the more I looked into the
ethics and legality of serving horse meat, the more I found
 myself sidetracked by the remarkable threat horse meat
poses to public health. All those hip adventure eaters who
 attended the Mooga Booga food festival last May in Brooklyn
and ate one of Dufour’s now legendary horse-meat-foie-gras-
pork-fat-grilled cheese sandwiches (he sold 5000) might be
in for a shock to learn that their knee-weakening soupcon of
horse flesh was a chemically infused carcinogenic chunk of
flesh that makes pink slime look as innocent as an apple.
Think about the supply chain. Much of the horse meat
produced by Canadian slaughterhouses (where Dufour
sourced) and exported globally comes from discarded
American race horses. Spent American race horses are
understood by the industry to be more of an industrial
byproduct than a source of food. The horse “product” was
nurtured to run around a track and win bets made by fat
cats and hucksters, not to become part of a heart attack
inducing sandwich sold to slobbering epicureans at a
food orgy.  

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